Back
to FAQ. First published 2 November
1999
Alfa Romeo Spider Frequently
Asked Questions. FAQ!
Removing the
engine and transmission as a unit
Yea, it has been my experience that not
only must the shift lever be removed from the
"stub", via loosening the pinch bolt, but the stub
must also be removed from the box, in order for the box to
readily clear the sheet-metal beneath the firewall.
- The stub does not HAVE to be removed (no
doubt it likely makes it a bit easier) - it does take some
finesse with the engine hoist to clear the top of the
trans tunnel at the firewall (helps to have two people too
- I can remove an engine and trans by myself but haven't
yet figured out how to install one solo yet).
- Move the engine hoist strap from the
middle studs on the head to the second set - move forward
one place - this helps tilt the engine and trans to clear
the tunnel.
- If you don't remove "stub" -
Tape (duct tape) circular covers in place around the
"stub" or they will fall off and dirt will fall
into the opening.
- By all means take the hood off and
remove the radiator and take the engine/trans out over the
front of the car. I saw a photo somewhere of a Spider
engine and trans poised over the car with the hood on like
it was ready to go back in - I don't know if it can be
done with the hood on - but IMHO hoods and radiators are
too valuable to risk being "bumped" with an
engine.
- Also, I have learned the hard way - make
sure that the car and engine hoist (assuming hoist has
wheels) is on level ground - even a slight slope can
result in accidental "bumps" or "rubs"
with the engine and transmission.
- You will encounter interference with the
drag link (that rod between the steering and the idler
arms).
- The front of the bell housing will catch
on the tie rod if it is not moved. Get a proper Alfa tie
rod end removal tool (borrow one or buy one from Highwood
Motors - they are fantastic) and pop one tie rod end out
and swing the rod down and out of the way - this takes
only a few seconds with the correct tool and it won't mess
up the tie rod end. This will not screw up your alignment
- I usually undo drivers side - easier to get at in my
cars.
- I have also discovered it is much easier
to remove transmission with engine if you leave the flex
donut on the driveshaft. Remove the front section (mark
front and rear) of the driveshaft with the donut - don't
forget to use a big hose clamp to compress donut so it
"slips" off the studs. If you leave the donut on
the transmission it really hangs up in the tunnel and
sheet metal can damage donut. Put the nuts back on the
ends of the three studs on the transmission yoke to avoid
messing up threads if they contact tunnel on the way out.
- IMHO leaving the donut on the trans and
trying to line up the driveshaft and trans when
reinstalling engine/trans is very difficult and dangerous
- you should reinstall engine/trans, install flex
donut/front driveshaft assembly on trans, then connect
front driveshaft to rear.
- Be careful as the engine comes forward
the oil pan will have a tendency to hang up on the sway
bar - keep an eye on this - you can lift the whole car
very easily by pulling up when oil pan is caught on sway
bar - this would be a very dangerous situation if it
suddenly let go.
- I find it helpful to use a small rolling
floor jack under the transmission to guide the engine
forward and to maintain a good removal angle.
- Hmm - maybe a still better technique
would be to just unbolt the idler from the frame - anyone
tried this?
- Yes, not for engine removal though -
there is not enough give/flex in the tie rods to clear the
bell housing - I did this once to check idler box motion
(unless you turned both wheels outwards as far as they
would go - still not sure you would have enough clearance)
- remember the shorter (right) outer tierod is also
connected to the idler.
Oh, and don't forget the ground strap!
There are a couple other things that are easy to forget
- like clutch slave hose, fuel line(s), temp. sender
wires. Good luck!
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