Step by step, you will
need a friend to assist.
Yea, it has been my experience that not only must the shift
lever be removed from the "stub", via loosening the
pinch bolt, but the stub must also be removed from the box, in
order for the box to readily clear the sheet-metal beneath the
firewall.
- The stub does not HAVE to
be removed (no doubt it likely makes it a bit easier) - it
does take some finesse with the engine hoist to clear the
top of the trans tunnel at the firewall (helps to have two
people too - I can remove an engine and tranny by myself
but haven't yet figured out how to install one solo yet).
- Move the engine hoist strap from the middle studs on the
head to the second set - move forward one place - this
helps tilt the engine and trans to clear the tunnel.
•If you don't remove "stub" - Tape (duct tape)
circular covers in place around the "stub" or
they will fall off and dirt will fall into the opening.
- By all means take the hood off and remove the radiator
and take the engine/trans out over the front of the car. I
saw a photo somewhere of a Spider engine and trans poised
over the car with the hood on like it was ready to go back
in - I don't know if it can be done with the hood on - but
IMHO hoods and radiators are too valuable to risk being
"bumped" with an engine.
- Also, I have learned the hard way - make sure that the
car and engine hoist (assuming hoist has wheels) is on
level ground - even a slight slope can result in
accidental "bumps" or "rubs" with the
engine and transmission.
- •You will encounter interference with the drag link
(that rod between the steering and the idler arms).
- The front of the bell housing will catch on the tie rod
if it is not moved. Get a proper Alfa tie rod end removal
tool (borrow one or buy one from Highwood Motors - they
are fantastic) and pop one tie rod end out and swing the
rod down and out of the way - this takes only a few
seconds with the correct tool and it won't mess up the tie
rod end.
- This will not screw up your alignment - I usually undo
drivers side - easier to get at in my cars.
- I have also discovered it is much easier to remove
transmission with engine if you leave the flex donut on
the drive shaft. Remove the front section (mark front and
rear) of the drive shaft with the donut - don't forget to
use a big hose clamp to compress donut so it
"slips" off the studs.
- If you leave the donut on the transmission it really
hangs up in the tunnel and sheet metal can damage donut.
Put the nuts back on the ends of the three studs on the
transmission yoke to avoid messing up threads if they
contact tunnel on the way out.
- IMHO leaving the donut on the trans and trying to line
up the drive shaft and trans when reinstalling engine/trans
is very difficult and dangerous
- you should reinstall engine/trans, install flex
donut/front drive shaft assembly on trans, then connect
front drive shaft to rear.
- Be careful as the engine comes forward the oil pan will
have a tendency to hang up on the sway bar - keep an eye
on this - you can lift the whole car very easily by
pulling up when oil pan is caught on sway bar - this would
be a very dangerous situation if it suddenly let go.
- I find it helpful to use a small rolling floor jack
under the transmission to guide the engine forward and to
maintain a good removal angle.
- Hmm - maybe a still better technique would be to just
unbolt the idler from the frame - anyone tried this?
- Yes, not for engine removal though - there is not enough
give/flex in the tie rods to clear the bell housing - I
did this once to check idler box motion (unless you turned
both wheels outwards as far as they would go - still not
sure you would have enough clearance) - remember the
shorter (right) outer tierod is also connected to the
idler.
- Oh, BTW. To replace the rear crank seal at the flywheel,
get a German "Goetze brand" stamped with the
Audi and VW number: 056 103 051D in case you cannot find
the original Alfa style.
- Oh, and don't forget the ground strap!
- There are a couple other things that are easy to forget
- like clutch slave hose, fuel line(s), temp. sender
wires. Good luck!