Sadly, this true alfista left
us in 2005. R.I.P Richard.
Part 1: Alfa and Air to the Adriatic
and Impoundment at Vicenza.
My 1969 Alfa Romeo Spider 1750 Veloce
is a great car in which to explore Italy. In the UK these
Pininfarina 'round-tail' cars attract inquisitive interest but
in Italy they attract enthusiasm approaching adulation,
possibly because these cars - indeed any 'old' Italian cars -
are now very rare in their home country. Be prepared for lorry
drivers blasting air-horns, waving in appreciation and
strangers approaching to shake your hand to express their
thanks to you for driving something so 'maraviglioso' or
something equally complimentary! Also, of course, Italy tends
to be sunny and that suits the Spider well!
An excellent way of seeing and also
'living' Italy for a few days is to join an Italian car
enthusiast club for one of their tours. In the Spring my son
and I joined the Club Alfa Romeo Duetto (www.clubarduetto.it -
Italians call all 105 Spiders 'Duettos', by the way) taking in
the 2003 1000 Miglia at the top of the Futa Pass, north of
Florence and then travelling south of Sienna into Tuscany.
After what proved to be a wonderful 2 day event the Club
President, Massimo Mello, kept in touch by email and invited
us to join an exploration of the Romagne region, including San
Marino for a week-end in mid-September, and then on 19th
October, a one day climb up into the mountains on the western
shore of Lake Maggiore to round off the 2003 season.
My wife, Anne, and I agreed that the
September trip - based on a hotel on the Adriatic coast near
Rimini - was a practicable proposition. At my house at this
time, it happened that Dave Hood was rebuilding my Spider
engine with a little help from me, and he felt the trip to
Italy would just suit his recently completed highly modified
1969 Giulia '1300' saloon (prize winner at 2003 September
Italian Car Meet, featured in AROC Autumn '03 Mag). Clearly
Dave's car, however desirable, is no Spider, but Massimo was
keen for the Giulia to join in. And there was a big plus to me
that Dave's capacious Giulia boot was available: The
wheelchair -to which my bone cancer confines me for anything
beyond the reach of my crutches - is too bulky for the boot of
my 'roundie'.
Early on Tuesday 9th September we
drove the old cars in rapid convoy down to Dover, took the
Seacat to Calais and headed off via Rheims and Lucerne across
France and Switzerland. On day 3 we were driving through
storms and deluge as we headed south from Lake Lucerne and up
the St Gotthard Pass. The Alps were enveloped in a perishing
blizzard but glorious warmth and sunshine welcomed us into
Italy. After a typically tortuous trip round Milan we were
glad to find our third night's stay, following the bed signs
off the A1 to a small hotel near Fidenza.
My leg was causing me grief by this
stage but didn't detract from a wonderful and in parts very
swift autostrada trip in convoy down past Bologne and on to
Rimini. The cars were behaving superbly, revelling as were we
in some spells of flat out driving. But unfortunately on our
arrival on the Adriatic coast at the Club venue - the Hotel St
Moritz in Igea Marina - I found myself immobilised by
excruciating pain in my right leg. Clearly the femur, already
weakened by cancer, had suffered badly during the journey
across Europe.
While the Club explored surrounding
historic towns on the Saturday, I rested-up, hoping things
would improve for Sunday. Sadly they didn't so I reluctantly
accepted the need for drastic action. With help for Anne from
the hotel and various Club members she made arrangements for a
flight home. Clearly the Spider had to remain in Italy until I
was able to arrange collection and the hotel found it storage
in a garage in the nearby town of Bellaria. Fortunately Dave
was able to continue exploring the area with the Club and he
speaks of participating in wonderful meals and his memories of
impressive convoys of Spiders winding through narrow alleys
rising steeply into medieval fortified towns where parking in
the beautiful historic squares had been reserved for Club
members.
On the Sunday evening after the Club
tour he was invited to join a Club member and his wife, his
Giulia chasing their Series 3 Spider in a hairy cross-country
drive to their home near Piza. After a midnight visit to the
Leaning Tower, he inspected their several Alfa Romeos
(including an immaculate 1,6 75 and a Bertone coupé as well
as the Spider) and, setting out on the Monday, he took the
Italian west coast route, crossed the wild expanses of the
Great St Bernard Pass into Switzerland, round Lake Geneva and
into France before picking up the Seacat in Calais on
Wednesday 17th September.
On Anne's and my return by air to UK I
had been immediately hospitalised and my leg pronounced
fractured. No wonder it smarted a bit! I was home again in
just over a week with my femur from hip to knee reinforced by
a stout titanium nail with a spiral plate passing through it
into the ball joint. Three weeks later, on Tuesday 14th
October, Dave's work commitments and my improving mobility on
crutches allowed us to fly RyanAir to Bologne / Forli, and
thence travel by taxi to the Adriatic coast and retrieve my
Spider from the 'garage del motore' in Bellaria. Its 29 day
storage had left it very dusty but otherwise unblemished.
Being thus perforce in Italy once again, our plan, naturally
enough, was to make the most of the situation! Beautiful
countryside and cities were at hand to explore and by now we
were just in time for the Duetto Club's 'end of season' visit
to Lake Maggiore. Magnifico!
With Dave at the wheel, me as
passenger / navigator, we drove north across the Romagna plain
and at Ferrara headed straight for the 'centro storico'.
Within Ferrara's famous city walls we located the pleasant
Hotel Carlton on Via Garibaldi facing onto a city-centre
square, parked-up and established that they had rooms for us.
Fortunately for me, confined to crutches, the hotel was very
close to Ferrara's notable historic buildings including the
massive 16th century stronghold of the Este family who reigned
rutheless and supreme in medieval Ferrara for many years but
for whom, surely, the ultimate accolade, awarded some 500
years later, was the naming of Alfa Romeo's magnificent Villa
d'Este! And this was a name that was to feature again during
our trip some days later when we were at Lake Como!
Ever conscious of the cabriolet's
vulnerability, I enquired at reception about a covered garage
for the Spider, and, fortuitously, there was one within 20
yards - and what a place it was! Heavy doors opened from the
same sunlit square into the quietly chilling gloom of a
Quentin Tarantino movie set that was found to house a few
quiescent vehicles and two taciturn Italians. After brief
negotiations one of these characters manoeuvred my car with
due reverence into a Spider-sized side bay, leaving it parked
over a boarded pit, which, along with some antiquated
lubrication charts and a dusty workbench alluded silently to a
busier past.