Recovery of the Alfa Spider from the Vicenza car pound took all
Thursday morning, curtailing plans to visit other historic
highlights of the city. Thus following friendly adieus to Capitano
Sartori and Officer Riello, we drove out of the Polizia Municipale
Vicenza and headed for Verona. There, having driven into the city
centre as usual, and having been thwarted in our attempts to reach
the amphitheatre by bus route exclusions and a maze of one way
systems, we parked in front of the beautiful marble frontage of San
Fermo, enjoyed a light lunch in the Bar S. Fermo and exited west to
nearby Lake Garda.
As we approached the east coast of the lake we thought the name 'Gardaland'
that greeted us regrettably redolent of Disneyland. But even that
failed to detract from the wonderful scenery as we took the minor
coast road up through the small town of Garda itself and northwards
on to Torri-d Benaco, roughly half way up the lake. There, despite a
total lack of timetable, our arrival at its cross-lake ferry was
timed to perfection.
We approached the landing stage, drove directly on, the gates
shut behind us and the ferry left. On this beautiful afternoon the
car deck was only half full with eight or nine cars and in the
passenger areas there was plenty of room to relax in the sunshine
and admire the views - October in Italy has many attractions! The
ferry makes land on Lake Garda's west coast at Toscolano-Maderno and
there we found a hotel that suited us well, the Albergo Sole. This
had good overlooked parking in the garden, where, in the morning, I
was able for the first time since being reunited with the car, to
give the Spider - with Dave's assistance - a much needed wash,
removing the dust of some 1800 miles driving and a month's storage.
From the Albergo Sole on Friday morning we decided to take one of
the more adventurous routes from Lake Garda, one that ascends the
scenic 'white' road snaking steeply up from the lakeside village of
Gargnano. Among the mountains we reached the two smaller lakes of
Valvestino and Idrio from where we descended to Brescia and joined
the autostrada to Milan. Here, as always, the great city's
encircling autostradas seemed as busy as the M25 - although in Italy
you pay for the privilege of experiencing gridlock!
After the autostrada toll booths we took the Cormano exit and, as
arranged, met up with Max (Massimiliano Brener), a Duetto Club
friend from previous Club meetings. Sadly, after all our Alpine
explorations, time was too tight for visiting the Alfa Museum at
Aresa that afternoon, as had been hoped, so we headed off in convoy
with Max's Series 4 Spider up the A1 to Lake Como.
In Cernobbio, a beautiful lakeside village lying a little north
of the town of Como, we booked in for the first of two comfortable
nights in the Albergo Centrale and Max hosted the evening's drinks
and food. During the evening stroll we found on the edge of
Cernobbio, the 'Villa d'Este' hotel - the luxurious lake-side venue
of many internationally renowned historic car gatherings and the
name of which links, of course, to Alfa Romeo and to Ferrara's great
castle.
Next day Max had business at his Milanese factory and Dave drove
us in my 1750 Spider through the Autumnal sunshine up the lakeside
road to Menaggio and back, enjoying roads that were quiet enough for
comfortable appreciation of the magnificent scenery.
That evening another Duetto Club member arrived from Florence in
his Series 3 Spider, also booked into the Albergo Centrale, and so
we comprised a group of four for Saturday evening's festivities of
drinks and dinner.
Sunday 19th October was the Alfa Romeo Duetto Club meeting day
with a tour into the mountains that started from Arona, a lakeside
town on the southern tip of Lake Maggiore. Our group of three
Spiders already gathered at Lake Como set out early and arrived at
Arona shortly after 9 a.m. where we found a large lakeside area
reserved for the Duetto Club.
During the next two hours over 70 '105 type' Spiders assembled
and registered, leaving at about 11.30 in an impressively long
procession that snaked its way up into the mountains west of the
Lake Maggiore, overlooking Lake Orta with its island of St Giulio.
When 70+ Spiders are on the move, the lengthy convoy is all too
easily dislocated at junctions and traffic lights, etc. To enable us
to stay together the organisers called a halt every so often -
although finding a stretch of road long enough to do this was not
easy! In this way it was ensured that all outfits were with us as we
made our way through the mountains.
After climbing for many miles our convoy eventually left the
forests and still continued upwards through ever wilder terrain of
the Mottarone. Eventually we arrived at what was clearly the highest
point at approx 1600m. By this time the views looking northwards
towards the Alps and the Simplon Pass into Switzerland were
stunning, with magnificent snowy peaks forming a majestic panorama
across an intervening valley. It was up here that all our Duettos
parked around a restaurant named (translated) "House of the
Snow". As planned, Club members took over the large dining area
for a 'rustic lunch' traditional in the region comprising a wide
variety of grilled meats served with fried vegetables and
accompanied by appropriate local wines.
Our massive contingent of Alfa Romeos then proceeded down again
following a private road through the forest and, once again, to Lake
Maggiore but now in Stresa. There a lakeside carpark area had been
reserved for the Duetto Club. As our convoy snaked through evening
sun into the busy centre it was clear from the boisterous
traditional music and smoking braziers that we were parking
alongside an ongoing roast chestnut party - one of many that we saw
throughout north Italy in that season. This one was a big charitable
affair being run by retired members of the Italian mountain army
force; the 'Alpini'. Dave and I strolled among the Alfas parked in
this wonderful lakeside location finding all the club members we
could in the smoke of the chestnut braziers, munching roast
chestnuts - or at least I did: Dave's allergic to nuts - and made
our adieus. It was a great end to the Club tour and this visit to
Italy.
Dave had a tight Tuesday deadline in UK to meet a guy needing
some race engines, so by 5pm we were driving out of Stresa. After
serious jams, caused perhaps by the reported 75.000 'Tifosi' meeting
at Magello that weekend and seemingly by all the other cars in north
Italy crowding the lakes that weekend, we drove overnight through
Switzerland - if you're in a classic Spider the St Gotthard tunnel
is good in the quiet of the night and negotiating Basel at 2.30am is
highly recommended - and eastern France past Strasburg - to which we
were not endeared by teeming rain, ill-defined road lanes and
notable lack of 24 hour services - and onto the good French toll
motorways.
After a couple of stops to catch up with a few hours' sleep,
snatched in surprising comfort in the Spider as rain hammered down
on the mohair roof, we reached Calais in good time for the 3.30pm
Monday SeaCat crossing and after a mercifully clear anti-clockwise
run round the M25, Dave was in good time for his appointment. And
how did the car perform on the two halves of its Italian adventures?
I think this 34 year-old car's performance is best summarised as
exemplary. In terms of the engine, it scarcely missed a beat:
Although at very high altitude the engine ran a bit roughly -
presumably the Webers found themselves a bit short of oxygen - it
returned to its familiar smooth running with a steady tick-over
after descending from the mountains. As regards water temperature,
the needle of the gauge sat resolutely central in virtually all
circumstances - even when the car was near stationary for 45 minutes
in the blistering heat of a Milan autostrada - cause of that
hold-up: a sadly squashed Saxo.
The water temperature would rise only during sustained driving at
or near the car's maximum speed (a procedure never attempted in UK),
though fortunately the system never heated enough to cause water
loss and also a few miles at moderate velocity would quickly restore
the norm. Equally, the oil pressure gauge held commendably steady.
Although when thoroughly hot the oil pressure would drop right down
at tick-over, as soon as the throttle was 'blipped' it would jump
back up and stay up when the engine was at operational revs. The
engine burnt less than one litre of oil in travelling over 2350
miles during which the car averaged just over 27.5mpg (unleaded plus
Castrol fuel additive).
I thought the fuel consumption commendable, bearing in mind the
mountainous terrain and the 'stop-go' driving of much of the tour -
not to mention those spells of very high speed driving. And,
incidentally, its beautifully simple hood kept out 99.5% of the rain
when driving through deluges across Switzerland on the way there and
through France on the way back. Overall, then, unlike its ageing
owner who failed physically during the first part of this Autumn's
travels, the Alfa Romeo Spider 1750 Veloce proved itself a
thoroughly reliable as well as a highly entertaining performer!
Richard Winter Nov
2003
E-mail to Richard
Winter